How to get on a Himalayan expedition? Very simple – organize it yourself. We tell about the participants of the expedition to Pumori of the Sport-Marathon team
“What is your life credo? – Always! About the participants of the expedition to Pumori
In November 2018, the Sport-Marathon team goes to Nepal to climb the Himalayan seven-thousander Pumori. We have already talked about how the idea of this expedition came about and how the team gathered, but the most interesting thing is its participants, the employees of our store. “What is your life credo? “Always!” – this is how their inner motto was voiced by the main instigator of this adventure, Dima Pavlenko.
- How to get two Golden Ice Axes if kicked out of official mountaineering.
- What are mountain hikes with climbing seven-thousanders.
- Why tourism is a good preparation for mountaineering.
- What hikes look like with a sledgehammer and stones in a backpack.
- What unsuccessful ascents teach.
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“I walk like 15 years ago, not because the Golden Ice Axes help, but because I train to green snot”
Dmitry Pavlenko, expert of the department of climbing equipment, leader of the expedition. Master of sports of international class in mountaineering, owner of two Golden ice axes, guide and mountaineering instructor on difficult technical routes.
All life in mountaineering is a coincidence
I decided to become a mountaineer at the age of 10 after watching the movie Death of a Guide. Unfortunately, as a child, I did not see its true background: in fact, the film showed that mountaineering is a sport of narcissistic jerks, ready to do anything to satisfy their ambitions. But then it seemed to me that this is a film about heroic dudes who climb somewhere and save someone at the cost of their own lives.
At the age of 18, I came to the section led by Sergei Nikolaevich Bezverkhov, a man who showed me what it means to be a real climber. He began to train at the age of 30, and at 50 he fulfilled the standard of a master of sports. He ran in -30°C, there were no barriers for him in the form of weather or anything else, there was only a goal. In his 50-something years, he did all 20-year-old boys in everything. When a coach sets an example for you, and not just sitting there lecturing, it’s nice to follow him.
And then it was just a coincidence, like my whole life in mountaineering. We went to the rocks in Sverdlovsk, on the way back, due to bad weather, we boarded a bus for an excursion. One of the points of the excursion program was near the Ural Polytechnic University. Here we are, they are telling us something, and then I remember – an employee of the Polytechnic University Sergey Efimov was on Everest and there is a section at the institute! And then I already submitted documents to Plekhanovka. But in the end I decided to enter the polytechnic, there was a construction department there – I think my parents will be pleased, they are my builders.
He acted, and at first could not catch climbers. Then the classmate said that they had a climbing in the arena, and I never went to physical education. Since then, he only went to her … he let the couples, he went to the arena and climbed. They caught me behind this, and as a drunk from the climbing section was transferred to the Sverdlovsk region for climbing. The coach there was Alexander Efimovich Piratinsky – one of those who struck climbing into the Olympic sport. He told me almost immediately: “Dimon, climbing from you will not work out,” for which I am colossally grateful to him, he saved me a lot of time and health. Well, no, no, I will engage in mountaineering.
It is better to walk alone than the devil knows with whom
I went to the army, after returning I was in the reserve of the national field for mountaineering. But not for long – did not meet the character with the leadership. I always believed that I should evaluate me by how I train and in my devotion to mountaineering, not management. And since I never showed loyalty to the leadership, even in the army, I was actually “shot on take -off” and expelled from official mountaineering.
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I was then lucky that these were years of perestroika and commercial fees began. The pioneer of such fees was one of the people I was drawn for – Sergey Borisov. At that time, he was the best climber of the Union, and it was the techie, he walked hard, uncompromisingly. He had a rule – it doesn’t matter what kind of documents you had, it is important that you can. In two weeks, we went with him more than in an allager in two months – those who could, of course. I came to him a second -beard and closed the CCM.
These commercial fees led me to solo mountaineering. Periodically running out of some idiots, I came to the conclusion that it is better and safer to walk alone than in the company the devil knows with whom. He filled all the pieces of paper for his own category, went to the Surgut sports committee with some certificate-so I am a self-mide of the CCM. Then I already realized that you can go to the mountains without any crusts – you come, choose the route by strength and go to pleasure.
The story of golden ice axes
The next fateful meeting took place in 1996. I went to Ala-Arche, and a friend called to INILECK. In that year, they raised the Han-Tengri and could fly there almost for free. And then I didn’t even have hats-in Arche it was warm. I bought some hat with a hole and went.
Before the khan, he offered to go to win, acclimatize. We went and got into the saving work – I had to save the Korean from the victory. And there they met a man who influenced my future fate. San Sanych Mikhailov was a coach of the Sverdlovsk team, who for the second year worked in the Himalayas under a three -year program: at first they went there for seven thousandths, then they tried to Annapurnes, the third was a macal in terms.
Apparently, San Sanych liked me for some reason, and he said: get ready for the Himalayas. I am neither a dream nor a spirit, but they took me to this team – quite by accident. There was just a change of generations – the old masters showed that they can no longer do anything, and since the program is state, that is, “already paid”, you have to go. And we have a young team, the average age is 33 years old – boys, jerks.
At the conference before leaving, the chairman of the federation said something like: it is clear that they will not climb anywhere, but the money has been paid, let them go. We were very hurt – we snapped and climbed in. We made the first ascent of Makalu – that year it was recognized as the best ascent in the world. This was the first ascent of the wall route, where we climbed most of the wall in alpine style. We did not hang anything and for two weeks we just climbed above seven thousand. Two people died under tragic circumstances. There was a lot of noise in the west … The French were generally stunned, they believed that Makalu was their mountain, and then some devils climbed in. Noise noise, and they gave us the Golden Ice Ax …
In 2003, I went to Inylchek – just like that. I ended up in the same camp with Odintsov's team, which acclimatized before the first autumn attempt on Zhanna. I went with them to Pobeda in two days from base to base. It so happened that he went out early, returned, they ask: “Where did you go?” I say: To win. And I was away from the camp for one night. How so?
After that, I moved to Moscow – I decided to live a normal life, got a job. On the very first working day, they call me – Sanya Odintsov wants to meet. Damn, I just started to live normally. We met. He says: we are going to Zhanna in the spring, quit work, come with us. And yet they thought that I was lucky with Makalu then and I would not get anywhere else – but here again. The Sverdlovites did everything they could to prevent me from getting on this expedition, but since Odintsov was the leader, they did not succeed …
We again urged the French – they consider Jeanne their mountain, its model is in their mountaineering museum. And here again the Russians. Again there was a lot of noise. Once again, the ascent was recognized as the best in the world, another Golden Ice Ax. Then I went back to Kyrgyzstan and focused on climbing.
